Broken Tail Light
- Thread starter Koriko
- Start date
wspollack
Active member
I swear I'm not trying to be a smartass here, but I suggest you check the wires yourself. It is an easy process, and you're guaranteed correct results.
All you need is a 12V test probe, available at any auto-parts store:
You attach the alligator click to some big metal part on the bike, and stick the pointy part in the back end of some connector, typically near the lights themselves. Almost all connectors have exposed metal, recessed in the back, for each wire, accessible with a thin point like that. Then, flip switches, turn signals, etc., and when juice is flowing in a given wire the probe will light up.
Really, I've done this for assorted bikes over the last 25 years, with no need of wiring diagrams, when I've added brake flashers, extra lights in topcases, extra turn signals, and so forth. And typically the ground wire will be brown or black.
LennyD
New member
I swear I'm not trying to be a smartass here, but I suggest you check the wires yourself. It is an easy process, and you're guaranteed correct results.
All you need is a 12V test probe, available at any auto-parts store:
View attachment 3852
You attach the alligator click to some big metal part on the bike, and stick the pointy part in the back end of some connector, typically near the lights themselves. Almost all connectors have exposed metal, recessed in the back, for each wire, accessible with a thin point like that. Then, flip switches, turn signals, etc., and when juice is flowing in a given wire the probe will light up.
Really, I've done this for assorted bikes over the last 25 years, with no need of wiring diagrams, when I've added brake flashers, extra lights in topcases, extra turn signals, and so forth. And typically the ground wire will be brown or black.
The simplest solution tends to be the most effective
I
triangletom
Active member
Based on the Skene Lights installation write-up at https://www.bmw-scooters.com/index.php?threads/skene-lights-installation-on-the-bmw-ce-04.2757/ - the wires as they are configured near the front of the rear wheel are:
- White wire is left turn signal
- Blue/green wire is right turn signal
- The two lavender/red wires are the brake light (goes to both indicators)
- Brown is ground
However, there is a connector part-way through hidden under the belt cover that introduces a color change. If you are trying to figure out the colors are at the indicator end, they are different:
Brown is ground, the others are just guesses - the colors may be different on the left side and right side:
- Blue or Green - probably the turn signal
- Lavender or Red - probably the brake light
- Yellow - maybe a persistent power supply?
The front indicators are much easier: red (signal) & black for both sides.
To my knowledge no wiring diagram has been published, although obviously the shops have access to one. I knew I was going to have to posi-tap all the things, so I just figured it out through trial & error. For the indicator lights, there doesn't seem to be a problem with just trying the different wiring up to see how it reacts, as long as you have your ground straightened out first.
Please let us know what you find out!
- White wire is left turn signal
- Blue/green wire is right turn signal
- The two lavender/red wires are the brake light (goes to both indicators)
- Brown is ground
However, there is a connector part-way through hidden under the belt cover that introduces a color change. If you are trying to figure out the colors are at the indicator end, they are different:
Brown is ground, the others are just guesses - the colors may be different on the left side and right side:
- Blue or Green - probably the turn signal
- Lavender or Red - probably the brake light
- Yellow - maybe a persistent power supply?
The front indicators are much easier: red (signal) & black for both sides.
To my knowledge no wiring diagram has been published, although obviously the shops have access to one. I knew I was going to have to posi-tap all the things, so I just figured it out through trial & error. For the indicator lights, there doesn't seem to be a problem with just trying the different wiring up to see how it reacts, as long as you have your ground straightened out first.
Please let us know what you find out!
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This is F×#&*ing B#@*&it. I have replaced my tail light once due to brushing it with my leg lightly. Ever since I'm constantly paranoid to be near the rear of the bike. I am frequently on a ferry boat and constantly have to watch that no one is near the tail lights and have had numerous close calls. No one watches their shins all the time. Today I had the bike in my truck bed and was ratchet strapping down the passenger peg to truck (per manual) and brushed a taillight with my shoulder. I heard the base crack. It stayed on but is now cracked inside.
This is stupid. I'm not paying $150 and 4 hours multiple times a year for this idiotic design. This is an electric motorcycle to be used in urban environments and at 80 mph. How is it okay the taillights are more fragile than crystal?
We need a working guard solution. Someone on Facebook has something working right?
This is stupid. I'm not paying $150 and 4 hours multiple times a year for this idiotic design. This is an electric motorcycle to be used in urban environments and at 80 mph. How is it okay the taillights are more fragile than crystal?
We need a working guard solution. Someone on Facebook has something working right?
I have owned my CE04 since April 2022 and use it as my daily scooter in an urban area. This involves street a lot of parking. In under 12 months I have replaced no less than 3 back indicators (blinkers) - at 130 Euro each!!!. I am about to replace both rear indicators AGAIN - one broken whilst parked on a ferry crossing and the other by a pedestrian whilst parked between two cars in an urban area.
The back indicators/blinkers look very cool but this is a serious case of form over function. It is a design flaw that takes a lot of the pleasure out of owning the bike.
My local BMW dealer just told me that the indicators of the R Nine T should work on the CE04 and reassured me that these are smaller and more robust - we will see.
BMW should either rectify the situation or make sure they inform potential customers that the CE04 is not fit for day to day urban usage. One solution could be to offer a metal guard similar to the belt drive guard installed on the CE04.
Any other tips welcomed.
The back indicators/blinkers look very cool but this is a serious case of form over function. It is a design flaw that takes a lot of the pleasure out of owning the bike.
My local BMW dealer just told me that the indicators of the R Nine T should work on the CE04 and reassured me that these are smaller and more robust - we will see.
BMW should either rectify the situation or make sure they inform potential customers that the CE04 is not fit for day to day urban usage. One solution could be to offer a metal guard similar to the belt drive guard installed on the CE04.
Any other tips welcomed.
Mr EZ
New member
There is a thread in the general discussion page you might want to look at. It reallyworks.
Quick, inexpensive fix for American version rear turn signals
Quick, inexpensive fix for American version rear turn signals
Butch Sweaters
New member
Hi everyone, I'm new here and very happy to have discovered this forum. I'm at 4,000 miles on a US spec 2022 CE-04, just outside of Philadelphia. HELLO!
Special thanks to @triangletom for the how-to guide to replacing the rear signals. I have a wiring question for @triangletom or anyone who can help.
I have now broken two of the rear signals off, both times when just casually walking around the bike. The design and materials of these signals is terrible! Why aren't they more flexible, like the front signals (which are more flexible, let less vulnerable to breakage???).
Anyway, after having broken two of them, I have now decided to replace the rear signals with these, which mount to the license plate frame and sit right next to the plate:
HERE IS MY QUESTION:
These aftermarket signals have four wires coming out of them, and the bike's wiring also has four wires going into each signal, so I am hoping these are compatible.
The new signals' wiring looks like this:
And the CE-04's existing signal wiring looks like this, with a GREY, a YELLOW, a BLUE and a BROWN wire:
What i need to know is, how do those four wires (GREY / YELLOW / BLUE / BROWN) match up with the GROUND, TURN SIGNAL, BRAKE, and the RUN signals???
Thanks in advance!!!
Butch
Special thanks to @triangletom for the how-to guide to replacing the rear signals. I have a wiring question for @triangletom or anyone who can help.
I have now broken two of the rear signals off, both times when just casually walking around the bike. The design and materials of these signals is terrible! Why aren't they more flexible, like the front signals (which are more flexible, let less vulnerable to breakage???).
Anyway, after having broken two of them, I have now decided to replace the rear signals with these, which mount to the license plate frame and sit right next to the plate:
Denali T3 Rear Switchback LEDTurn Signal Pods
Item: P895164HERE IS MY QUESTION:
These aftermarket signals have four wires coming out of them, and the bike's wiring also has four wires going into each signal, so I am hoping these are compatible.
The new signals' wiring looks like this:
And the CE-04's existing signal wiring looks like this, with a GREY, a YELLOW, a BLUE and a BROWN wire:
What i need to know is, how do those four wires (GREY / YELLOW / BLUE / BROWN) match up with the GROUND, TURN SIGNAL, BRAKE, and the RUN signals???
Thanks in advance!!!
Butch
triangletom
Active member
From https://unfinished.bike/skene-lights-installation-on-the-bmw-ce-04 I noted a little bit about the colors, but they do change at each connection point, and I probably different between the left and the right indicator. Here's my guess:
- Brown: Ground
- Blue: Turn Signal
- Lavender/Red: Brake
- Yellow: Run
The nice part is that all the wires flowing to the rear lights are low-power, so if you get it wrong, you are very, very unlikely to damage anything. I had to use brute force and deduction for that light install, and I suspect you may too. With the posi-taps, it's easy to swap the cable out if you hit the indicator switch and see it behaving incorrectly.
- Brown: Ground
- Blue: Turn Signal
- Lavender/Red: Brake
- Yellow: Run
The nice part is that all the wires flowing to the rear lights are low-power, so if you get it wrong, you are very, very unlikely to damage anything. I had to use brute force and deduction for that light install, and I suspect you may too. With the posi-taps, it's easy to swap the cable out if you hit the indicator switch and see it behaving incorrectly.
Butch Sweaters
New member
this eans.Hi @triangletom. Thank you for the reply!!
Well I got these new Denali T3 Rear Switchback LEDTurn Signal Pods and for some reason the instructions say not to connect them to the running light wire that's in the bike's cable to the signal, but "instead use Red w/ Green Stripe @ Euro Socket". Do you have any idea what that means???
At this point I think that if this means I must find that running light somewhere else on the bike (wherever the Euro Socket is) and bring that all the way back to the rear lights this isn't going to work.