Cam chain tensioner

[650Gtbrat]

Yes, I read that somewhere. They say that the models after 2014 have updated mechanical tensioner and they have not been recalled so far. But I don’t understand why I can’t just replace the part with the same mechanical tensioner.

It's because they fail. If the part doesn't work replace it with a re-engineered better part. I have a 2013 with 54,000 kms and when the dealer installed the new hydraulic one, it changed the bike by leaps and bounds,especially during rapid deceleration.

 

[Key_to_life]

This a great video on this procedure. However I think I’ll leave it for the professional at the dealer to do especially if it is going to cost only $500 extra on top of parts.

 

[Greg goes wild]

I got around to removing all the panels predatory to opening the rockee cover to correct the cam chain slippage, and noticed the chain tensioner.. It looks to be mechanical. I thought there was a recall to go to hydraulic. Anybody know anything about this?

I have a 2016 C650 GT and i had the SPRING tensioner that went bad. There was no recall
on my bike the date on the tensioner was 2015. I still have the old parts just incase this
happens again. I HOPE NOT. I asked the dealer service guy what tensioner are you
putting back in. The guy said the OEM part from BMW. This was done about 1 month ago

 

[Ceesie76]

So I just managed to check what the BMW dealer, in 2018, did to fix the rattling sound on my 2016 650 Sport with 2,000 miles, under warranty.
Would you believe they replaced the old mechanical tensioner with a new mechanical tensioner. So, they did not upgrade to the hydraulic one.
So, with now about 8,000 miles of course the mechanical tensioner is starting to rattle again. I can see for about $75 I can get a new one so that may last a couple thousand miles while I wrap my head around what parts to order and how to install the hydraulic version.
Can't believe BMW did not upgrade my bike given the known problems and here we are again, only 6,000 miles later.
The part they installed back in 2018, just to be sure, is 11318544896 which from the image looks to be only mechanical, no oil feed going to it.

 

[motomanjim]

It's in Spanish, but you can see what he is doing.

Yesterday, I received my order of parts from Max BMW to upgrade my second generation cam chain tensioner to the hydraulic version. The parts actually arrived sooner than expected and included the parts specified on the parts fiche as well as a gasket set for the valve cover. While my cam chain tensioner has worked as expected on my 2013 C650GT, I felt it necessary to upgrade to the hydraulic version for I know there are many of you who have experienced failures with the second generation tensioner. I appreciate those who post videos of successful upgrades such as the one referenced here and only wish that I could understand Spanish. From what I can gather, this mechanic had trouble removing the plug for the oil feed line and seems to have used a torx socket. From what I can see on my C650GT, the plug requires a 5 mm hex socket. I understand that my C650GT may be different from the C600 in the video. I have removed the fairings on my scooter and will lower the radiator hopefully tomorrow and dive in. This upgrade will probably extend the limits of my mechanical abilities so any words of wisdom from those of you who have done this work are most welcome.

 

[motomanjim]

I tried to upload a picture of the oil line plug earlier so hope this works

 

[motomanjim]

I tried to upload a picture of the oil line plug earlier so hope this works

I still can’t do it for the system says the picture file is too large.

 

[wspollack]

I still can’t do it for the system says the picture file is too large.

This forum has a very low size limit for pics. If you have a Mac, I can guide you, regarding making a pic smaller.

 

[motomanjim]

This forum has a very low size limit for pics. If you have a Mac, I can guide you, regarding making a pic smaller.

Thanks! My pics are on an iPhone. I had a Mac, once upon a time, but elected to go with a Windows computer for the GS911. I emailed the picture to myself which allows me to lower the file size but am hesitant to try posting it again.

 

[motomanjim]

This is the oil line feed plug on my C650GT which, in my case, requires a 5mm hex Allen socket. I wish the pic was clearer. The C600 may be different but I’m thinking they’re the same. Using the wrong tool would impact its ease of removal. I’m just wondering if that’s what the poster of the video encountered.

 

[Ceesie76]

You may want to have at it with an impact wrench, with the right size, and a good quality, socket. An impact can get things like this undone safer than applying slow force. What we don't want obviously is to deform/strip the plug. Applying a bit of focused heat at the plug in advance could also help. I did not see the video yet. Think I will be going your route as soon as I get some time and proper workspace. For now, I am thinking about just replacing the current mechanical tensioner with a new one, just to bridge the time until I can do it properly.

 

[Ceesie76]

P.s. is there a parts list someplace for all the things required to install the hydraulic version?

 

[Greg goes wild]

The tensioner on my 2016 Sport started making a rattling noise with a cold engine (went away after a few minutes) after only 2,000 or so miles. Dealer serviced it under warranty, however recently it started becoming noisy again, at around 8K miles, so I will need to check the paperwork whether they just replaced it with a new mechanical one rather than hydraulic. I would hate to have the engine self destruct over this one part.

On my 2016 C650 GT i had the chain tensioner replaced about 1 month ago. The rattling
noise started around 3.500 miles or so. I told the dealer about it n they said if it gets
worse bring it back in. 6.000 mile service the rattling was still there. At 8.500 miles it went
out totally. I could NOT start the bike up. It would just turn over. That's when they found
out it was the chain tensioner gone bad. I did just check the paper work n it said chain
tensioner. I talked with the service manager about this issue and IF this is going to
happen again on my bike. I will have the service manger call BMW USA n see why
they did NOT put the hydraulic tensioner in. Since they know the mechanical SPRING
tensioner FAILS. They need to do a RECALL on ALL models. Cuz i am NOT going to
pay for it again parts & labor $1.569 bucks

 

[motomanjim]

P.s. is there a parts list someplace for all the things required to install the hydraulic version?

First of all, thank you for your suggestions for tackling this job. My parts were ordered through Max BMW on their parts fiche by accessing the site at shop.maxbmw.com. When going to the site, select your scooter and in my case, my scooter is the C650GT (K19) with production years 01/11-05/15. Select ENGINE from the list at the top of the page and scroll to the Timing Chain/Chain Tensioner/Slide Rail grouping of parts. And there you will find the parts specified for the hydraulic tensioner upgrade and they are under positions 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12. In addition to those parts, I ordered the Gasket Set for the cylinder head cover which is part number 11128523449. I hope this helps.

 

[Ceesie76]

Super helpful yes, thank you!

 

[Ceesie76]

FInally today I got to the job of installing a new mechanical tensioner that I had purchased before the summer. I printed out the instructions from the DVD and it took me about 5 hours, including replacing one of the 2 idle actuator air hoses (I think that is what they are called, as a "when you are in there" job. The hose had indeed split at the connection to the intake, enough to let in air where it was not supposed to be. The other hose looked in good shape but, just for good measure, I trimmed off the end and reconnected the 'fresh' end.
The only part of installing the new tensioner I wasn't sure about, since it is not clearly covered in the workshop manual instructions, is how to remove the 'pin' that keeps the tensioner retracted, once the device is in place. It turned out to be simple enough - with a pair of pliers I put upward pressure on the pin and -click!- the pin came out easily and I could hear and feel the tensioner 'spring into action', literally. The old tensioner was extended to a degree, and was immovable at that length - absolutely no spring action, it could not be pressed in nor extended longer. By design I believe they are supposed to exert some light pressure on the chain guide or whatever is down there, but the old one was just 'frozen'. Started the bike up and - runs great again, no more death rattle. It had started rattling about 1,500 miles ago and I was constantly worried that the engine would grenade. Hopefully this third merchanical tensioner (in little over 10K miles) will last a bit. Once it starts being noisy again I will probably bite the bullet and convert to hydraulic - although it does not look like a fun job. Most of my 5 hours today was prying off all the fairings and putting it back on (I had to take off both sides to get at the idle air actuator hoses, otherwise it would have probably been about an hour and a half less).

 

[zx10guy]

FInally today I got to the job of installing a new mechanical tensioner that I had purchased before the summer. I printed out the instructions from the DVD and it took me about 5 hours, including replacing one of the 2 idle actuator air hoses (I think that is what they are called, as a "when you are in there" job. The hose had indeed split at the connection to the intake, enough to let in air where it was not supposed to be. The other hose looked in good shape but, just for good measure, I trimmed off the end and reconnected the 'fresh' end.
The only part of installing the new tensioner I wasn't sure about, since it is not clearly covered in the workshop manual instructions, is how to remove the 'pin' that keeps the tensioner retracted, once the device is in place. It turned out to be simple enough - with a pair of pliers I put upward pressure on the pin and -click!- the pin came out easily and I could hear and feel the tensioner 'spring into action', literally. The old tensioner was extended to a degree, and was immovable at that length - absolutely no spring action, it could not be pressed in nor extended longer. By design I believe they are supposed to exert some light pressure on the chain guide or whatever is down there, but the old one was just 'frozen'. Started the bike up and - runs great again, no more death rattle. It had started rattling about 1,500 miles ago and I was constantly worried that the engine would grenade. Hopefully this third merchanical tensioner (in little over 10K miles) will last a bit. Once it starts being noisy again I will probably bite the bullet and convert to hydraulic - although it does not look like a fun job. Most of my 5 hours today was prying off all the fairings and putting it back on (I had to take off both sides to get at the idle air actuator hoses, otherwise it would have probably been about an hour and a half less).

The dealer tech made a mention of the same thing you noticed about the mechanical tensioner he took out of mine. Where the tensioner was extended but locked into place with no application of spring pressure when the piston was depressed. He wasn't sure if this was how the tensioner functions as he's never examined one before. But thought that it's not normal. The tensioner's job is to put pressure on the one of the chain guides to take out any slack in the timing chain. This is why when these things fail, the chain flops around and jumps timing which causes the engine damage we've been hearing about.