Dr Pulley HIT Clutch

[wctan72]

Hi there,

Just wondering if anyone can provide the part number on those problematic seals? Going to open up the transmission case and would love to change them to vitons. I was thinking of going ahead to switch out both for input and also output shaft to eliminate any future issues once and for all. ;-)
Appreciate any help. Thanks!

My C600 Sport was built in June 2012 and I checked both of the seals (on the shafts behind the driven variator/clutch and the driving variator) and neither one of them is leaking. So I'm not changing them since they cost $32 each!!!

 

[davidh]

Well, just heard back from my dealer. $126 to swap the two clutches. Assuming they have the tool, I can't imagine it's more than 15 minutes of actual work. Seems like I'm being screwed. Shocking, I know, from a BMW dealer.

 

[kreiman]

Well, just heard back from my dealer. $126 to swap the two clutches. Assuming they have the tool, I can't imagine it's more than 15 minutes of actual work. Seems like I'm being screwed. Shocking, I know, from a BMW dealer.

Glad I've got a strap wrench and a strong brother!! I've ridden BMWs since the 80's and the only time my bikes see the dealer is for recalls. I couldn't afford to ride BMWs if I had to take them to the dealer for service. There's absolutely no justification for charging $126 to remove & replace a single nut even if it is a 60mm nut with a strong spring under it. Are you sure they understand that you've already removed the clutch/variator and don't need them to do the whole job of removing and replacing it?

 

[davidh]

Glad I've got a strap wrench and a strong brother!! I've ridden BMWs since the 80's and the only time my bikes see the dealer is for recalls. I couldn't afford to ride BMWs if I had to take them to the dealer for service. There's absolutely no justification for charging $126 to remove & replace a single nut even if it is a 60mm nut with a strong spring under it. Are you sure they understand that you've already removed the clutch/variator and don't need them to do the whole job of removing and replacing it?

Yep, they understand it. I dropped off the clutch assembly and new clutch on Saturday. The message they left last night said I could probably have it back by next Saturday and would be $125.

I ordered a 60mm socket from Amazon last night and am picking up the parts today and will attempt it myself once I have the socket and strap wrenches in hand. This, of course, was the same dealer that wanted $45 to reset the service interval light even though the bike was already there undergoing warranty work.

And this is how they treat a regular customer. I purchased both my bikes from them (in 2009 and 2013) and had them do all my service before I realized I was getting screwed over. I still use them for parts but may be moving to online resources. I just wish I had another dealer to go to!

 

[kreiman]

Yep, they understand it. I dropped off the clutch assembly and new clutch on Saturday. The message they left last night said I could probably have it back by next Saturday and would be $125.

I ordered a 60mm socket from Amazon last night and am picking up the parts today and will attempt it myself once I have the socket and strap wrenches in hand. This, of course, was the same dealer that wanted $45 to reset the service interval light even though the bike was already there undergoing warranty work.

And this is how they treat a regular customer. I purchased both my bikes from them (in 2009 and 2013) and had them do all my service before I realized I was getting screwed over. I still use them for parts but may be moving to online resources. I just wish I had another dealer to go to!

Where in northern California do you live? I lived in the bay area for 13 years and did all of my business with San Jose BMW. There were other dealers that were closer to me, but they were the only one that I trusted to do a good job and not screw me over. Plus they always gave me a loaner so it wasn't that much of an inconvenience to ride the extra distance to take my bike to them.

If it was going to take your dealer a whole week to do it, it sounds to me like your dealer was going to have to order the spring compressor tool and decided to make you pay for the tool as part of the labor cost. I'd feel guilty charging anybody more than $50 to change the clutch and I'm doing it all by hand. I'm sure it's easier with the special spring compressor and socket.

 

[davidh]

What a PITA... I picked up everything from the dealer deciding to swap the two clutches myself. After getting a 60mm socket from Amazon and figuring out a safe way to get it apart, viola -- it's apart! I've spent the last two hours trying to figure out a way to get it back together solo. Having tried a variety of techniques including strap wrenches, C- and bar-clamps, a floor jack, and other crazier methods, I've determined it can't be done.

During of my nearly-successful attempts, however, I broke the plastic spring sleeve (see picture #2). Is that part really necessary and should I replace it before re-assembling this thing?

 

[kreiman]

Not sure if the plastic sleeve is necessary, but I would probably replace it. I'm guessing that at a minimum it would make weird noises without it. Unfortunately, after looking at the parts fiche, it appears that the spring and the sleeve have to be purchased together for about $80.

 

[davidh]

Not sure if the plastic sleeve is necessary, but I would probably replace it. I'm guessing that at a minimum it would make weird noises without it. Unfortunately, after looking at the parts fiche, it appears that the spring and the sleeve have to be purchased together for about $80.

Well, I reassembled everything without the sleeve and don't seem to be having any issues. I'm not overly excited about the performance of the DP clutch, however. Perhaps it needs a few hundred miles to wear in or something. I'm getting some chattering and it's engaging at about the same point as the OEM clutch.

I'll be posting some pictures of how I ended up removing/replacing the clutch package in case anybody else is goofy enough to try it. Oh yeah, the OEM clutch (with 40k miles on it) still had plenty of friction material -- probably could've gone another 40k miles without any issues. Talk about feeling dumb...especially if the performance increase doesn't justify the hassle!

 

[grey.hound]

Updates? I'm thinking this might be a good mod. Saw your detailed post too david, thanks. I know everyone says the sliders are worth it, but I'm more interested in the clutch right now.

 

[kreiman]

Updates? I'm thinking this might be a good mod. Saw your detailed post too david, thanks. I know everyone says the sliders are worth it, but I'm more interested in the clutch right now.

Might as well replace the sliders and sliding pieces while you're there since they aren't really very expensive. See this thread for more info and for part numbers for the springs I used to make the clutch work the way I feel it should. You'll have to order the springs too since they aren't included with the extra springs that come with the clutch. http://www.bmw-scooters.com/forum/threads/1382-Dr-Pulley-Clutch-Tuning

More info here as well https://plus.google.com/112444798119728976601/posts/h5Bg9EbtR1X

Here's David's write up on how he changed it by himself in case you don't have someone that can help you. https://plus.google.com/100969778555334843146/posts/eRTcjZ4DuFJ

 

[Snowdog]

Well, just heard back from my dealer. $126 to swap the two clutches. Assuming they have the tool, I can't imagine it's more than 15 minutes of actual work. Seems like I'm being screwed. Shocking, I know, from a BMW dealer.

Sounds reasonable to me and I have been a mechanic most of my life. 15 minutes just about covers getting the bike in and out of the shop and unlocking your tool box, and maybe getting the parts out of the box!! I bet you couldn't do the whole job in fifteen minutes.

 

[Snowdog]

Oh sorry, I read further, guess I was right. One reason I got away from fixing vehicles, people would accuse you of charging you to much when they had no idea of what was involved in doing the job. You owe the dealer an apology.

 

[wctan72]

Would like to revisit this topic to see if anyone has plans or already changed to a aftermarket variator such as the Dr Pulley Sportvariator V302002. Shall I assume a faster pickup from standstill?

Also, for my ride of current 30k miles I have having slight screech from stationary pickup; I would assume besides glazed clutch pad perhaps it would possibly due to warped clutch bell? What do you guys think of a possibility to have the clutch bell overheated? Had encountered my ride showing overheating indicator when I rode up a sharp incline earlier this year. Is it okay to continue riding with this light screeching noise?

Ultimately, my plan is to change all the transmission components, i.e. clutch, variator and also clutch bell to restore the performance. Any further suggestions?

 

[wsteele]

What a PITA... I picked up everything from the dealer deciding to swap the two clutches myself. After getting a 60mm socket from Amazon and figuring out a safe way to get it apart, viola -- it's apart! I've spent the last two hours trying to figure out a way to get it back together solo. Having tried a variety of techniques including strap wrenches, C- and bar-clamps, a floor jack, and other crazier methods, I've determined it can't be done.

During of my nearly-successful attempts, however, I broke the plastic spring sleeve (see picture #2). Is that part really necessary and should I replace it before re-assembling this thing?

View attachment 1663

Davidh there are times that I feel the dealer is charging a lot for work being done, on the other hand I being a Lic. Electrician I get comments that I charge to much for the work I have done (I charge $95.00 per hour) they forget that I have come to there place with a fully stocked Van, almost all of the time I have what I need to make the repair, I am a master electrician, I'm insured, I do the job right, I guarantee my work, and when I remember this I don't think they are charging to much they also have to make a living.

 

[kreiman]

Would like to revisit this topic to see if anyone has plans or already changed to a aftermarket variator such as the Dr Pulley Sportvariator V302002. Shall I assume a faster pickup from standstill?

Also, for my ride of current 30k miles I have having slight screech from stationary pickup; I would assume besides glazed clutch pad perhaps it would possibly due to warped clutch bell? What do you guys think of a possibility to have the clutch bell overheated? Had encountered my ride showing overheating indicator when I rode up a sharp incline earlier this year. Is it okay to continue riding with this light screeching noise?

Ultimately, my plan is to change all the transmission components, i.e. clutch, variator and also clutch bell to restore the performance. Any further suggestions?

I don't plan to change variators any time soon. I changed out the rollers for Dr Pulley sliders when I changed the clutch and I think that pretty much accomplishes most of what the aftermarket variator would. Besides, I've tuned my Dr Pulley clutch by changing the springs and consequently it now performs exactly like I think it should.

 

[kreiman]

Davidh there are times that I feel the dealer is charging a lot for work being done, on the other hand I being a Lic. Electrician I get comments that I charge to much for the work I have done (I charge $95.00 per hour) they forget that I have come to there place with a fully stocked Van, almost all of the time I have what I need to make the repair, I am a master electrician, I'm insured, I do the job right, I guarantee my work, and when I remember this I don't think they are charging to much they also have to make a living.

I charge $90 an hour and I'll change these clutches out for $50 a pop all day long. Of course with the cost for shipping you probably wouldn't save any money, but I'm just sayin', it's not that big of a job. Just gotta have a way to compress the spring while removing and replacing the nut. My brother compressed mine by hand.

 

[DPaul]

Just buy the seal from BMW (the old one WILL fail...) and swap it out. Pretty easy with either a slide-hammer seal puller, or the cheapo work-around of drilling/screwing in a screw and levering it out with a pair of Vise Grips. It's just like pulling a front crank seal on a car engine...

( you also could match the old seal up to a new one in VITON from a bearing supply house. That would last essentially FOREVER...)

Skutorr, how long do you think it takes for this seal to fail? (in other words, when do you think it should be replaced?)

 

[Bmwgr650gt]

Hi guys I want to ask experiences after changing the stock clutch withe the DRpulley one please . I have a 2013 C650gt full malossi variator 22gr rollers , big white spring and yellows springs in the clutch but I have a slow acceleration from 0-50 khm . If I buy the DRpulley clutch I will solve the slow acceleration problem from 0-50 khm ?

 

[davidh]

Hi guys I want to ask experiences after changing the stock clutch withe the DRpulley one please . I have a 2013 C650gt full malossi variator 22gr rollers , big white spring and yellows springs in the clutch but I have a slow acceleration from 0-50 khm . If I buy the DRpulley clutch I will solve the slow acceleration problem from 0-50 khm ?

Having been down that road, I’d strongly advise against it. I’m pretty sure I posted my experiences somewhere on this forum but will look and figure out where.

 

[RollaCosta]

I have recently had hiT clutch installed on my C650 Sport and I am very happy about it.
Before, my stock clutch caused some strong vibrations in the semi-engaged state at low rpms. Sometimes the vibes were enough to stall the engine when crawling at the stoplight. Another issue was the floating torque at over 120kmh when trying to accelerate strongly. Could’ve been worn, at 30000km. After replacement, slightly higher rpms to engage, but no vibration. Also steady constant torque and top speed went up from 170kmh to over 180. So i can only recommend the latest v4 edition of Dr.Pulleys hiT clutch for BMW C650. That innovation was not for nothing, with mechanical lock-in after the second set of springs extends, not just centrifugal friction like the stock. Anyway, the dry clutch is one suboptimal design element here, saying this comparatively to the excellent sublime wet multiplate clutch on the Tmax 530 that I have had before this beemer.