Engine Oil Change

AZ Tee Jay

New member
I cannot find any assistance with the task of changing the engine oil. I'm fairly certain it is not difficult but ya never know. I'm sitting at 4,350 miles and although it is not officially due till 6K I'm not a fan of keeping even the best oil running beyond 4K. The dealer wants several hundred $ to do this (and check the drive chain adjustment as well - hey, it's got an automatic adjuster so what exactly are they going to do with it?).
$75 just for the oil, filter and drain bolt washer - that's plenty!
 

Dale

New member
Try webbikeworld has good instructions for oil change. Filter, the OEM is a Mahle (OC306) which can be purchased from Raw Power Motorcycles for about 11.00 plus shipping.

As long as you use a 100% synthetic oil it is no problem going 6k between oil changes. In fact I will be going to 12K between changes or one year after warranty. I will sample and test to ensure the oil will go to 12K or 1year. If you go to 6K or longer ensure you see 100% synthetic on the container, not a blend or a mineral oil they simply will not go the distance.

People have concern with oil turning black. That is an old mineral base thing like 3K mile oil changes. A PAO synthetic that turns black tells you the TBN (total base number) is good and the acid is being neutralized. Put in a good PAO oil and run it for a year regardless of miles.
 

JaimeC

New member
Exactly. If the manufacturer (who is offering you a three year, 36,000 mile warranty) is telling you that 6,000 miles between changes is good, then it's good. They don't want to have to repair or replace anything that might be damaged due to improper oil changes. In fact, if the manufacturer says 6,000 miles is good, you can assume that is a conservative estimate, and that you could PROBABLY go even longer and still be safe.

I'm no fan of spending any more time or effort on a bike than I have to. My K1200LT is only a few hundred miles shy of 180,000 miles. My first BMW, a 1985 K100 that was stolen ten years (almost to the day) that I bought it, and at the time it had 158,000 miles on the odometer.
 

yellasei

New member
ok, oil change, here we go.
tools needed, an 8mm allen key, wrench or socket. a 17mm spanner or socket. a drain bowl, old tray or cat litter tray's are best and a filter cup wrench or strap wrench.
about 3.5 litres of 15/50w oil, oil filter, sump plug washer, o ring for strainer cap(poss not need) and 2x o rings for strainer tube (again, poss not need)
run the scoot until the oil is warm or perform this after a ride, plce on centre stand with drain tray under and undo the 8mm sump plug, drain the oil and discard the alloy washer. undo the 17mm headed, black alloy cap to the rear of the engine on the l/h side, there are 2 of these. the alloy is easily marked so take care but a black marker pen can dress up the annodising if needed. check the cap's o ring, if damaged replace. next, remove the strainer from where the cap was and clean in a suitable solvent to remove any debris and again check the o rings for damage and replace if needed.
use your filter tool and spin off the filter cartridge and discard the filter, using the new filter, prime it a little with your fresh oil, wet the rubber seal with oil and spin it on, the torque setting is 11nm or 8 feet pound but as a rule, hand tight and half a turn.
oil up the o ring of the strainer tube and replace it, followed by the cap and this is tightened to 15nm or 11 feet pound.
next up is the drain plug, using a new alloy washer, turn it in then 28nm or 20 feet pound, wipe all excess oil from plugs and filter then remove the dipstick and fill with about 3 litres of oil and run the engine, i run them at idle until the fan cut's in then leave for an extra minute, stop the engine and check the level with the dipstick and top up as needed. i did this to mine at the first 600 mile service and i have had no oil warning light's on and i get the tick come up with the OBC oil check everytime.
on the sport version, you will only need to remove the silver kick panel and remove the rear screw from the panel lower to that to gain access to the dipstick, the GT version you have the little panel to remove for the dipstick but i think ( don't quote me on this) that the lowers might be in the way to get to the strainer and poss filter.
i used the recomended castrol 15/50 and like i quoted, i have never had any problems and now have 1500 trouble free miles showing.
hope this helps you guy's ;)
 

Snowdog

New member
Having been a mechanic most of my life, I am always amazed by the "enthusiasts" who fuss constantly over their "ride" what ever it may be, then tell me how they are going to see how long they can go between oil changes! Interestingly, the people who fix cars, trucks, and motorcycles, for a living, are more likely to change the oil in their favorite "ride" more often! What do they know??????????
 

sean2020z

New member
This is amazing that there is no YouTube video for an oil change on c600 sport!!! How is that possible? Unbelievable! Why those of you DIY-ers don't put on on it. I'm sure many people will be thankful.
I've got my 2014 c600 sport 2 days ago and the dealer told me that it require semi synthetic oil not full synthetic. Is that right?
Also in the hand book there is no mention of maintenance schedule. What needs to be changed at what mileage etc. I also have a Kymcon 500 and hand book is much better and more informative than BMW one. I'm changing the oil myself on that and save a lot of $$.

I hope buy the time my oil change is due, someone will upload a YouTube video about the oil change. And someone will find a document with more maintenance details on what needs to be changes at what mileage etc.
 

Lance

New member
This is amazing that there is no YouTube video for an oil change on c600 sport!!! How is that possible? Unbelievable! Why those of you DIY-ers don't put on on it. I'm sure many people will be thankful.
I've got my 2014 c600 sport 2 days ago and the dealer told me that it require semi synthetic oil not full synthetic. Is that right?
Also in the hand book there is no mention of maintenance schedule. What needs to be changed at what mileage etc. I also have a Kymcon 500 and hand book is much better and more informative than BMW one. I'm changing the oil myself on that and save a lot of $$.

I hope buy the time my oil change is due, someone will upload a YouTube video about the oil change. And someone will find a document with more maintenance details on what needs to be changes at what mileage etc.

I just did mine last night before I saw this post :p I should do a vid next time but it is pretty easy stuff. The only niggle is getting the filter screen back in.
 

davidh

Member
I just did mine last night before I saw this post :p I should do a vid next time but it is pretty easy stuff. The only niggle is getting the filter screen back in.

I used a skewer or skinny screwdriver the last two times I did it to prevent the screen from falling into the sump. I guess I was lucky the first time I changed it but have heard a few horror stories on here so I'm more careful now!
 

tlippy

New member
Are you sure of the wrench sizes? I think the main oil chamber needs a T-50 star bit - not an 8mm. Please advise
 

tlippy

New member
Dale - the BMW dealer in Eugene, Oregon advised me to not put full syn oil till 10K miles. Claims that BMW's take a long time to "break-in". Is this malarkey, U think?
 
From the Web Bike World Blog - (bold/underline mine)
Draining the Oil
BMW (or anyone else) has yet to release a shop manual, so I'm flying blind here with the oil change. But there are apparently two drain plugs; one for the engine, just to the rear of the filter (photo above) and another drain plug under the oil reservoir on the left-hand side of the scooter.

The engine drain plug (standard 8 mm hex) uses a metal crush washer, available from the BMW dealer.
 

justscootin

Member
There is a shop manual and it is about $105 or you can find it interesting Web to download as most of us have

From the Web Bike World Blog - (bold/underline mine)
Draining the Oil
BMW (or anyone else) has yet to release a shop manual, so I'm flying blind here with the oil change. But there are apparently two drain plugs; one for the engine, just to the rear of the filter (photo above) and another drain plug under the oil reservoir on the left-hand side of the scooter.

The engine drain plug (standard 8 mm hex) uses a metal crush washer, available from the BMW dealer.
 
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