Front Wheel Removal?

[davidh]

What tool is required to remove the front wheel? I know I have to remove the calipers (easy), the two "keeper" screws/bolts, but what about the "quick release hub" (with the enormous Allen head)? Is that piece threaded or does it just slide out once the two keeper bolts have been removed?

 

[yellasei]

That is the head of the spindle and the other end is threaded, you will need a tool to undo it. Over here in the uk you can buy a small multi sized tool for this job and they are not expensive.

 

[davidh]

That is the head of the spindle and the other end is threaded, you will need a tool to undo it. Over here in the uk you can buy a small multi sized tool for this job and they are not expensive.

Thanks. It's just a big Allen wrench, correct? Any idea what size?

 

[yellasei]

My internal calipers measure 20mm.

 

[davidh]

My internal calipers measure 20mm.

Sweet, thank you!!!

 

[davidh]

BMW sure doesn't make anything easy! Finding a 20mm hex socket locally is all but impossible. Tried auto stores, hardware stores, Sears, but no dice. Just ordered one from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W7GL46/). Probably shouldn't have waited until my front tire is nearly bald but having too much riding

Update: The axle isn't 20mm, it's 19mm. If you can't find one locally, it's easy to use JustScootin's idea. Get a 1/2" x 1-1/4" bolt and one (or two) 1/2 nuts from the hardware store. Use red Loctite to keep it from coming apart and you'll be set!

 

[Doraemon]

Do you have Harbour freight tools nearby?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

 

[Xian Forbes]

These bikes sure seem to put more wear on the front tire than the back. Mine is doing the same thing

 

[justscootin]

The Allen head is a 3/4 inch. This picture shows a a small tool I have made for this job.
It is a bolt with a 3/4 head and 2 nuts on the other end. A bit of red lock tite for each nut that are jammed together. Then I can use a normal socket set.

 

[davidh]

View attachment 501

The Allen head is a 3/4 inch. This picture shows a a small tool I have made for this job.
It is a bolt with a 3/4 head and 2 nuts on the other end. A bit of red lock tite for each nut that are jammed together. Then I can use a normal socket set.

Very cool!!! I'll have to give that a shot while I'm waiting for the bit.

 

[JaimeC]

Just some notes (since we replaced the tire on my C650GT tonight).

You know those two little red dots the tire manufacturers put on the tire to mark the lightest part of the tire? Traditionally you'd line those dots up with the valve stem since NORMALLY that is the heaviest part of the wheel. However, if you have the tire pressure sensor, that thing is a LOT heavier than the valve stem; you really want to line those dots up with the sensor, NOT the valve stem.

There is not a whole lot of wiggle room to remove the calipers. Be patient and take your time. Also, watch out for the ABS sensor on the left side of the wheel; you'll have to remove that to get the left caliper off.

Finally, my friend showed me a neat trick I didn't even know about (it worked on his R1200RT and he wanted to see if it worked on the C650GT too). When the bike is idling, press and hold in the turn signal button for five seconds, then press it to the left and hold it there for five seconds. The headlight will go out. He said the feature was there to allow you to warm up the bike in the winter and allow maximum charge to go to the battery while idling. Once you get moving at a certain speed, the light will come on by itself. You can also make it come on immediately by flashing the high beam.

The things you learn!

 

[davidh]

@JamieC: Thanks for tips. I just came in from pulling the wheel and definitely learned a few things. First: Is it really necessary to remove the caliper? I did but am not sure it's in the way to removing the tire.

Also, here's an updated tools list:

-- Clamping bolts: T30
-- Brake calipers: T45
-- Axle: 19mm hex -or- 1/2"x1-1/4" bolt + 1/2" nut Loctite'd (red) together.
(Note: I originally ordered a 20mm hex socket but it was too big. I used justscootin's technique with the bolt/nuts/Loctite and it worked perfectly.)

 

[JaimeC]

You'll have to pull at least ONE caliper. The width of the wheel (let alone the width of the tire) prevents it from getting past both calipers. If you pull one you MIGHT have enough wiggle room to get the wheel off without removing the other (then again, you might not as you can't even tilt the wheel until the rotor clears the calipers, and since the wheel itself is so small that probably won't leave you enough room afterward).

 

[davidh]

You'll have to pull at least ONE caliper. The width of the wheel (let alone the width of the tire) prevents it from getting past both calipers. If you pull one you MIGHT have enough wiggle room to get the wheel off without removing the other (then again, you might not as you can't even tilt the wheel until the rotor clears the calipers, and since the wheel itself is so small that probably won't leave you enough room afterward).

Good point, thank you. It wasn't that big of a deal to remove the calipers. It looks impossible at first but a little twisting and maneuvering did the trick.

Back wheel is this weekend -- we'll see how that one goes.

 

[SteveADV]

...It looks impossible at first but a little twisting and maneuvering did the trick.

Hmm, that's exactly what I told my wife.

 

[hardright]

I installed the R&G sliders up front. To remove the wheel now requires 2 13mm sockets.