Gearbox Oil Change

bmwben

Member
Has anyone changed the gearbox oil on a c650gt? I'm thinking of attempting it.

I'm pretty sure I found the fill plug. It's way in there but I think I can access it ok.

But I can't find the drain plug. Is it under the exhaust? Does anyone know if you have to take the exhaust apart (i.e. unbolt it from the engine) to access the drain bolt? Or is there an easier way, like siphoning the oil from the fill plug? Is there any way to get the exhaust out of the way without unbolting the header pipes from the engine? I guess I'll do it if I have to but I dread the thought....
 

davidh

Member
Has anyone changed the gearbox oil on a c650gt? I'm thinking of attempting it.

I'm pretty sure I found the fill plug. It's way in there but I think I can access it ok.

But I can't find the drain plug. Is it under the exhaust? Does anyone know if you have to take the exhaust apart (i.e. unbolt it from the engine) to access the drain bolt? Or is there an easier way, like siphoning the oil from the fill plug? Is there any way to get the exhaust out of the way without unbolting the header pipes from the engine? I guess I'll do it if I have to but I dread the thought....

Are we talking about the final drive chain? If so, both the fill and drain plugs are really accessible. The fill plug is about 5" in front of the rubber-covered vent hole and the drain plug is at the lowest point of the cover.

And there's no reason to touch the exhaust at all; it's on the other side of the bike.

Or am I misunderstanding?
 

bmwben

Member
No, I mean the gearbox. There is a gearbox in between the variator and the final drive chain. It takes 200ml of 75w90.
 

davidh

Member
No, I mean the gearbox. There is a gearbox in between the variator and the final drive chain. It takes 200ml of 75w90.

So yes, it's on the opposite side of the bike from the variator and exhaust. It has two sprockets, a chain, and chain guide.
 

bmwben

Member
The two sprockets, chain and chain guide are in the rear wheel swinging arm.

The swinging arm has 75w90 gear oil in it. That is the oil the the drive chain passes through.

There is also the same 75w90 oil in the gearbox.

It is confusing because BMW calls the variator the "automatic gearbox." I'm not referring to that. There is no oil in the variator.

Anyway, I found the fill plug for the gearbox (see attached), but the drain plug must be covered by the exhaust.

According to the manual, you have to take off all the side panels, drop down the radiator and disconnect the exhaust manifold to drain the oil from the gearbox.

Call me an optimist but I was hoping someone might have found an easier way....
 

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davidh

Member
The two sprockets, chain and chain guide are in the rear wheel swinging arm.

The swinging arm has 75w90 gear oil in it. That is the oil the the drive chain passes through.

There is also the same 75w90 oil in the gearbox.

It is confusing because BMW calls the variator the "automatic gearbox." I'm not referring to that. There is no oil in the variator.

Anyway, I found the fill plug for the gearbox (see attached), but the drain plug must be covered by the exhaust.

According to the manual, you have to take off all the side panels, drop down the radiator and disconnect the exhaust manifold to drain the oil from the gearbox.

Call me an optimist but I was hoping someone might have found an easier way....
Oh geez, I've never replaced that oil. I've never seen a maintenance interval for it -- is there one???

Then again, I've had the chain/sprocket service done, perhaps they replaced that oil at the same time. I'll have to look at my service order to confirm.
 

bmwben

Member
It is listed on the maintenance schedule for 40,000 km (25,000 miles). I'm trying to do as much of the service by myself as I can. I think I can do everything but the valve check. So I guess I'll have to let the dealer soak me on that.

They want $350 to swap out the TPMS sensor in the rear wheel. Taking the tire off is not something I've ever done. Plus I wouldn't know how to set up a new sensor. That's why I was asking in another thread if there is some way to disconnect the TPMS system.
 

davidh

Member
It is listed on the maintenance schedule for 40,000 km (25,000 miles). I'm trying to do as much of the service by myself as I can. I think I can do everything but the valve check. So I guess I'll have to let the dealer soak me on that.

They want $350 to swap out the TPMS sensor in the rear wheel. Taking the tire off is not something I've ever done. Plus I wouldn't know how to set up a new sensor. That's why I was asking in another thread if there is some way to disconnect the TPMS system.

Yeah, I've always let the dealer handle the gearbox issues (except changing out the rails). It's messy and looks to be a PITA. And the TPMS, that seems like a ridiculous price. Any clue what just the part costs? It's pretty easy to swap out the unit once the tire is off. As far as programming, I'm not sure. That said, I've never had to replace either of mine over the life of the bike (7+ years and 66,000 miles). It may not be the sensor and the problem might just go away if you're lucky.

And re tire replacement, I always buy a tire online and remove the wheel to have the dealer swap it out. $25 as opposed to well over $100 if they remove the wheel. Removing either wheel takes < 10 minutes and saves a ton of $$$.
 

davidh

Member
Hmm, I'd wait it out and see if it corrects itself. I want to say I've had that error but then it went away.
 

bmwben

Member
Funny you say that. I just got back from a ride and the idiot light didn't come on. Maybe its just an intermittent thing. I'll keep my fingers crossed....
 

bmwben

Member
I did the gearbox oil change today. If you attempt to do the work yourself, I can save you a lot of time and aggravation.

The manual says start by taking off the right side panels, then drop the radiator and disconnect the exhaust manifold. DON'T DO IT. I did and I regretted it dearly. It is unnecessary and time consuming. Some of the plastic panels are almost impossible to take off without breaking them. And trying to reconnect the exhaust to the manifold is a nightmare I would not wish on anyone.

Instead start by disconnecting the muffler from the frame, and then disconnect the center stand. I didn't realize it until the end but the exhaust is held up by the center stand. Take the stand apart and the exhaust flops down far enough to give you access to the drain plug. Just put something over the expansion chamber so you won't get oil over it.

Drain and fill with 250ml of 75w90. Easy peasy!
 

Pappy13

Active member
And now the light is back on.

Looks like you can buy the tpms from China for less than $20.

Ben, I did replace my TPMS sensor (front) with one from China, used a "TPMS learn tool" (about $15.00 delivered) to wake up the sensor, the GS-911 to place the scoot in "learn mode" and have had no problems since. There are also you tube videos of replacing the battery, but I want to think yours is a newer model and battery probably isn't dead. You can always purchase the sensor, wait for next tire change and install it then, I didn't have that luxury as the PO had some dip on facebook replace the tires and he broke off the front sensor and never attempted to balance either tire. The front tire started cupping severely and as soon as I had the sensor in hand I replaced the front tire and sensor.
 

Pappy13

Active member
Ben, I did replace my TPMS sensor (front) with one from China, used a "TPMS learn tool" (about $15.00 delivered) to wake up the sensor, the GS-911 to place the scoot in "learn mode" and have had no problems since. There are also you tube videos of replacing the battery, but I want to think yours is a newer model and battery probably isn't dead. You can always purchase the sensor, wait for next tire change and install it then, I didn't have that luxury as the PO had some dip on facebook replace the tires and he broke off the front sensor and never attempted to balance either tire. The front tire started cupping severely and as soon as I had the sensor in hand I replaced the front tire and sensor.
And now my light is on, I had ordered another Metzler Feel Free front tire to replace the one I mounted when the previous owner had lost the TPMS sensor and the tire was not balanced, when the new tire arrived I had CycleGear install it (had been purchased from them and they mount and spin balance for $25.00 when purchased from them). I put about 125 miles on new front tire and light came on. Tire still very smooth at speed so unless they slobber knocked the sensor it's just the China quality. I ordered 2 of the Schrader sensors and when they come in I'll either swap the sensor and take the tire back to CycleGear and have them re-balance or wait and install the Michelin tires and swap then. While I wait on the sensors I'll also place the scoot in "learn mode" and trigger the learn tool used to "wake up" the TPMS sensor and see if it comes back. Part of CycleGear's service is lifetime balance so if I do have to break the bead and replace the sensor before the next tire swap I can take it in and get the re-balance free.
 

Delray

Well-known member
Updating this thread with two gear oil questions ....

I have a 2013 approaching 16,000 miles and the service manual says change gear oil at 24,000 miles, so I'm planning ahead -- will probably do it around 20,000 miles.

The manual says drop the radiator, move the muffler out of the way and lower the exhaust manifold to create enough room to drain the 250 ml of oil. The fill bolt is easier to reach, thankfully! Has anyone done this?

Earlier in this thread, a workaround was described like this: "DON'T DO IT ... Instead, start by disconnecting the muffler from the frame, then disconnect the center stand. The exhaust is held up by the center stand. Take the stand apart and the exhaust flops down far enough to give you access to the drain plug. Just put something over the expansion chamber so you won't get oil over it. Drain and fill with 250ml of 75w90. Easy peasy!”

My question here would be, what does "disconnect the center stand" mean? What supports the bike -- is it on the side stand or a lift?
 

Kaisarlog

New member
I’m on the same stage! But till I get there got up on a different problem, previous owner of my C600 tightened the aluminium bolts too much with the filters while oil change and now they are stock, that’s the one of them, the other one is far more worse. Any help?
 

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Delray

Well-known member
Good tool for the job (watch the video):

New bolts and gaskets from BMW:

Meanwhile, you could try ....

1) Spray a LOT of WD-40 oil on the bolt. Let it soak in for 10 minutes. Wipe it very dry
2) Get a vise grip wrench on two good sides of the bolt, and lock it on as tightly as you can
3) Tap tap tap tap tap on the wrench with a hammer. Tap lightly but firmly. Go slow, be patient! Wiggle the wrench a bit and tap some more. Eventually if you feel the bolt move a little, stop, spray and soak again, and continue. Tap it and try to work the bolt loose with your hands on the wrench.

Vise grip wrench FYI:

Good luck!
 
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