Headlight burned out?

hshawarby

New member
From the flange mount back is about 2.5" . The forks come within 1/4" of the back of the headlight.... to be exact.
Unless you find one that allows the cover to go on, it wont fit.



Thanks - I'm assuming that these measurements are for the 600.
I'll have to take the 650's front end apart to see if the clearance is the same.
The problem will be finding the time to do it.
 

TN_Sooner

Member
When searching around the internet on headlight bulbs (someone at the Finger Lakes Rally was hawking an LED "drop-in" replacement for H4 halogen bulbs) I found out from many sites that these LED and HID "headlamp replacements" are GARBAGE. From what I've seen, THIS is THE hot ticket for a replacement bulb (many on the ADV forum raved about them) so I'm going to order a pair and keep them on hand, I think: Osram Rallye 64217 65w Ultra High Output H7 Special-Service Bulb

Well, I joined the "unlit" club today - so I ordered a couple of Jamie's recommended lights.
 

Scorpion56

Member
When searching around the internet on headlight bulbs (someone at the Finger Lakes Rally was hawking an LED "drop-in" replacement for H4 halogen bulbs) I found out from many sites that these LED and HID "headlamp replacements" are GARBAGE. From what I've seen, THIS is THE hot ticket for a replacement bulb (many on the ADV forum raved about them) so I'm going to order a pair and keep them on hand, I think: Osram Rallye 64217 65w Ultra High Output H7 Special-Service Bulb

Got mine delivered today from Candlepower. It's so easy to replace bulbs now, after the first go 'round over this past summer. Lights looked great while operating off bike's battery only. When I started the bike, got the !Lamp indicator. Both lights lasted less than one second. But they did not burn out. When I cycled the key to off then back to on, without actually starting the bike again, they both came back to life no problem. Re-started bike - both gone with !Lamp again. Back on battery only - two good lights.

Any ideas, before I put the OEM BMW bulbs back in???
 

JaimeC

New member
Hmmmm... I wonder if the computer is interpreting the extra current draw as a malfunction? Never even thought of that. Damn things are too "smart" for their own good...
 

Scorpion56

Member
I thought of that as well. It makes sense. As I've been using the heated seat and grip, I made sure to turn them both completely off, but I think it may be a "protect the bulb" only current trip point and not the overall demand from all the systems on board.

I've since cycled back to the OEM bulbs with no problems. It would be interesting to see if others who have ordered these bulbs (or the Sylvania Silver Star) are seeing the same issue. I'll discuss this with the service folks when I take the bike in for its upcoming 6K service visit. Although they might tell me I voided the warranty.
:p
 

JaimeC

New member
The computer is programmed "knowing" how much current each particular circuit is SUPPOSED to draw. A higher-wattage bulb is likely being interpreted as a malfunction. When BMW first came out with the original "Flying Brick" K-bikes, a lot of owners who installed headlight modulators and flashing brake lights found themselves inexplicably stranded when their bikes shut down for apparently no reason.

Ever since the CAN-BUS bikes came out, Aerostich has been posting warnings to people who bought their heated jacket liners to have another accessory socket installed that is wired directly to the battery via fused relay, bypassing the CAN-BUS system altogether. The jacket draws enough current that the CAN-BUS detects it as a malfunction and shuts the bike down. Their electric vests and "Warm Bibs" are CAN-BUS compatible.

And here we were thinking all these advanced electronics were here to make our lives easier?
 

JaimeC

New member
I actually replaced my burned out OEM bulb last year with a Silverstar. It's still hanging in there! It has already lasted longer than the stock bulb.
 

JaimeC

New member
Well, my Silverstar gave up the ghost today at lunchtime. Unfortunately, no Silverstars in stock at the local Auto Supply store, so I had to settle for a generic H7 bulb. I will say that it was a lot easier to replace the bulb this second time around knowing what to expect. I still had to take the side panel off to see what I was doing... but it went a lot more smoothly than that last time.
 
I have a few longer trips planned this year and am about to add a pair of Denali lights to give some back up for failed bulbs as well as improved coverage. Am planning to bypass CANBUS and hopefully not upset it in the process. Everyone's comments here have just confirmed CANBUS is just like my wife, very efficient but bypass at your peril!
 

Vago

New member
I am on my 4th low beam bulb . . . . they go out about every 6,000 miles. My current bulb has been in a bit longer. The battery is always fully charged because I ride my bike almost daily. The bulbs burn out.
 

hardright

Member
Hi Jaime. Trying to do my first bulb replacement. Do you actually just pull the connector out? No need to open the cover of that plug?
 

Sparkrn

Member
Thread revisit. At 13000 miles I just put the forth low beam lamp in. As anyone found a better lamp yet?
 

JaimeC

New member
I'm probably jinxing myself here but... I haven't had to replace a bulb in well over a year now. Last bulb was just some generic 55 watt H4 bulb I picked up at a service station because I NEEDED a bulb "right now." I don't even remember the brand but it has held up better than any of the expensive Sylvania bulbs I used as replacements.
 

TwoPort

Member
I'm probably jinxing myself here but... I haven't had to replace a bulb in well over a year now. Last bulb was just some generic 55 watt H4 bulb I picked up at a service station because I NEEDED a bulb "right now." I don't even remember the brand but it has held up better than any of the expensive Sylvania bulbs I used as replacements.

Thats funny. I was thinking the same thing a couple weeks ago. Expensive ones burned out quickly so I got cheapos at Walmart and they are still good. Go figure.
 

bicyclenut

Member
Still on what I assume to be OEM bulbs since I purchased used with ~1000 miles, 7800 miles and 13 months use and never replaced either headlamp (of course now one WILL fail tomorrow for sure) I keep wanting to replace them with higher color temperature bulbs to be closer to LED Auxiliary lights but knowing the shorter life of these bulbs and hearing issues on forum, makes me want to just stick with OEM.
 

wsteele

New member
I have replaced my low beam bulb twice in 22000 plus miles I just go to the local auto parts store and get a new bulb for about $7.00. The first time I did it took about 45 mins. To a hour 2nd time about 20 minutes, the hardest part is getting the holding clip on the back of the bulb holder
 

Vago

New member
I find that I go through a low beam bulb about every 5,000 miles. I Was thinking that it was because I wasn't waiting for the little orange triangle to go away before trying to start the bike. Then I thought maybe my thumb slipping off of the starter button caused one or two of them to fry. I'm at 36,000 miles now, and it still seems that I need a bulb every 5K.
 
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