High beam wiring

I was working on installing additional lighting today and have to install a relay/trigger wire to the positive wire going into the full bean light. There are 3 wires - brown, white and striped (I am slightly colour blind). I assume the white is to the handlebar switch for headlight. Before I go testing and digging around tomorrow can anyone confirm white wire is to switch?
 
Yes after testing and finishing off wiring the white is the switch wire. Denali D2 aux lights are now fully operational mounted on the fender down low. I may go back and change the supplied Posi-tap connectors into the high beam and running lights. These connectors are great on things like 12-16 gauge wiring but it doesn't make a really solid connection on what I think is 22 gauge wiring in our bikes. In a perfect world I would do soldering but very little room to get things done behind the lamp when the panel is removed.
 

davidh

Member
Yes after testing and finishing off wiring the white is the switch wire. Denali D2 aux lights are now fully operational mounted on the fender down low. I may go back and change the supplied Posi-tap connectors into the high beam and running lights. These connectors are great on things like 12-16 gauge wiring but it doesn't make a really solid connection on what I think is 22 gauge wiring in our bikes. In a perfect world I would do soldering but very little room to get things done behind the lamp when the panel is removed.


Well done! I installed my Denali's a couple of months ago but didn't go to the extra step of wiring them to the high-beam switch. I use them as running lights, only turning them off occasionally. Post pics!

Edit: I just realized you used the Denali dual-intensity lights. Very cool and totally explains the high-beam connection.
 
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TwoPort

Member
I've been thinking about what to use for more light. Which mounting brackets did you use? And can you post some pics please?
 

davidh

Member
I was riding early this morning in a thick fog with visibility around 100 yds at best. A friend I was going to meet for a golf game was just ahead of me on the road and when we stopped at the course he told me the only thing he could really see in his rear mirror were the LED lights.
It's interesting of course that the lights mounted on the fender move with the front wheel during turns which helped avoid a couple of potholes. I will post a couple of shots tomorrow of mounts and cabling but here is a simple shot of lights in the single density mode with running lights. In full mode it's very bright and reaches way ahead of bike full beams. 2015-07-01 19.13.46.jpg
 

TN_Sooner

Member
Thanks for summarizing this for us. I would prefer hard wire to a on/off toggle - does the base packaging include a toggle or do I need to purchase separately? Alternatively (and perhaps preferable), I could switch the lights off a "when engine is running" wire.

I see an option for a "switch mount" - not clear what this is? Do you know?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Thanks for summarizing this for us. I would prefer hard wire to a on/off toggle - does the base packaging include a toggle or do I need to purchase separately? Alternatively (and perhaps preferable), I could switch the lights off a "when engine is running" wire.

I see an option for a "switch mount" - not clear what this is? Do you know?

Thanks in advance for any help.

The package comes with switch so you can have off, on with low density and automatically full density only when high beams are on. I used running lights for one connection as we have them by law here. If I didn't I may have just some some ignition source such as GPS to tap into. Wiring the D2 lights running and high beam connections to an ignition source would give you full intensity all the time. I know several people who like me principally wanted extra recognition out there on the road as much as anything. The interesting benefit with fender mounting is lights go in the direction of any turns or as some car manufacturers call it, active lighting!
 
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