Dr Pulley HIT Clutch

[2stroker]

Hi guys,

Just wondering if anyone knows anything about the "latest version" of Dr Pulley's HIT Clutch, 302002 V4? Anyone have a version history or know anything about the differences from V1 to V4?

I've just purchased the clutch online, but there's no indication of the version so I'm not sure if I'm getting the latest version or not

Any help much appreciated!

 

[2stroker]

Also, if *anyone* is able to help decipher the attached image, it would be a huge help. I've seen a few dyno charts in my time, but interpreting scooter dyno's like this is well outside my wheelhouse! There are just SO many lines



From here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeIow12RJkg

 

[seraphtan]

Also, if *anyone* is able to help decipher the attached image, it would be a huge help. I've seen a few dyno charts in my time, but interpreting scooter dyno's like this is well outside my wheelhouse! There are just SO many lines

View attachment 1429

From here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeIow12RJkg

I'm not sure if I'm reading this correctly, but here's my interpretation.

With the HIT clutch:-
1) The clutch seems to be engaging earlier.
2) It has quick acceleration from (20kph to 60kph) at (4750rpm to 6500rpm) and then gradually increases from that point forth.
3) You're running at a lower engine speed (rpm) from 60kph to 180kph.
4) Deceleration from 8000rpm is linear, and does not have a flat spot like the standard clutch.
5) Does not seem to have any effect on the power (hp/bhp/ps) of the bike. (or so I think)

Does anyone else have any idea how to interpret this chart?

 

[davidh]

Hi guys,

Just wondering if anyone knows anything about the "latest version" of Dr Pulley's HIT Clutch, 302002 V4? Anyone have a version history or know anything about the differences from V1 to V4?

I've just purchased the clutch online, but there's no indication of the version so I'm not sure if I'm getting the latest version or not

Any help much appreciated!

What's involved with replacing the OEM clutch with the Dr Pulley? Is it a simple matter of pulling one and putting in the new one? Is a new clutch bell required? I've done a belt change so I'm comfortable in the CVT case; just not sure what else is needed.

 

[davidh]

Getting ready to order one of these and wanted to bump this question:

What's involved with replacing the OEM clutch with the Dr Pulley? Is it a simple matter of pulling one and putting in the new one? Is a new clutch bell required? I've done a belt change so I'm comfortable in the CVT case; just not sure what else is needed.

 

[Skutorr]

Unless it's out-of-round , scored or belled-out a lot, just clean it up with emery cloth and she'd good to go! Also, REPLACE THE SEAL that's behind it; it's a recall/warranted item and the dealer should give you one FREE...

 

[justscootin]

The seal is not a recall but it may be replaced a the dealers discretion (BMW North America or BMW Canada will still have to authorize the work) if found to be leaking upon there inspection if your scooter is still under warranty. If you want the inspection this may cost you for the removal of all the plastic and belt and even they might not replace the seal.

REPLACE THE SEAL that's behind it; it's a recall/warranted item and the dealer should give you one FREE...

 

[davidh]

The seal is not a recall but it may be replaced a the dealers discretion (BMW North America or BMW Canada will still have to authorize the work) if found to be leaking upon there inspection if your scooter is still under warranty. If you want the inspection this may cost you for the removal of all the plastic and belt and even they might not replace the seal.

Thanks, good tip! Do you know if the seal is easily replaced or something best left to the dealer?

 

[Skutorr]

Just buy the seal from BMW (the old one WILL fail...) and swap it out. Pretty easy with either a slide-hammer seal puller, or the cheapo work-around of drilling/screwing in a screw and levering it out with a pair of Vise Grips. It's just like pulling a front crank seal on a car engine...

( you also could match the old seal up to a new one in VITON from a bearing supply house. That would last essentially FOREVER...)

 

[davidh]

Just buy the seal from BMW (the old one WILL fail...) and swap it out. Pretty easy with either a slide-hammer seal puller, or the cheapo work-around of drilling/screwing in a screw and levering it out with a pair of Vise Grips. It's just like pulling a front crank seal on a car engine...

( you also could match the old seal up to a new one in VITON from a bearing supply house. That would last essentially FOREVER...)

Thanks! I'll check with the dealer before I replace the belt and clutch just to make sure it hasn't already been done. Sounds pretty straightforward but we all know how that goes...

 

[kreiman]

Hi guys,

Just wondering if anyone knows anything about the "latest version" of Dr Pulley's HIT Clutch, 302002 V4? Anyone have a version history or know anything about the differences from V1 to V4?

I've just purchased the clutch online, but there's no indication of the version so I'm not sure if I'm getting the latest version or not

Any help much appreciated!

Don't know what the difference in versions is, but the clutch I just received is stamped with the version number. Mine is stamped V4.

 

[kreiman]

Getting ready to order one of these and wanted to bump this question:

What's involved with replacing the OEM clutch with the Dr Pulley? Is it a simple matter of pulling one and putting in the new one? Is a new clutch bell required? I've done a belt change so I'm comfortable in the CVT case; just not sure what else is needed.

It requires a special tool to compress the spring between the clutch and the driven variator/CVT output. It also requires a 60mm or 2 3/8 socket. I jerry rigged a strut compressor used for replacing front struts in cars and was able to make it work for compressing the spring.

 

[kreiman]

Just buy the seal from BMW (the old one WILL fail...) and swap it out. Pretty easy with either a slide-hammer seal puller, or the cheapo work-around of drilling/screwing in a screw and levering it out with a pair of Vise Grips. It's just like pulling a front crank seal on a car engine...

( you also could match the old seal up to a new one in VITON from a bearing supply house. That would last essentially FOREVER...)

My C600 Sport was built in June 2012 and I checked both of the seals (on the shafts behind the driven variator/clutch and the driving variator) and neither one of them is leaking. So I'm not changing them since they cost $32 each!!!

 

[Edumakated]

Has anyone seen any real world numbers in regards to the performance gains (or losses) from after market sliders / clutches?

 

[kreiman]

Has anyone seen any real world numbers in regards to the performance gains (or losses) from after market sliders / clutches?

I'm not really looking for performance gains, just want to improve ride-ability. I don't like the way BMW designed the clutch and cvt to work. IMHO the clutch engages at higher rpm than I like and slips way too much and far too long. No wonder they have problems with the clutch getting hot. My 650 Burgman clutch engages at much lower rpm and doesn't slip near as much. I tried to load my C600 Sport in the back of my pickup the other day and couldn't do it without somebody pushing from behind. By the time the clutch finally engaged the rpm was so high that it would just spin the rear tire instead of going up the ramp. I read that BMW designed the clutch to work this way so the engine would constantly remain close to the rpm that provides maximum torque. IMHO they made a big mistake. My 650 Burgman will blow my clutch slipping C600 Sport in the weeds. On paper, that shouldn't happen since the Burgman weighs more, makes less HP and also makes less torque!!

 

[davidh]

It requires a special tool to compress the spring between the clutch and the driven variator/CVT output. It also requires a 60mm or 2 3/8 socket. I jerry rigged a strut compressor used for replacing front struts in cars and was able to make it work for compressing the spring.

OK, well I have everything apart and am wondering what my options are for compressing the spring (and keeping the clutch from flying apart) when I remove the 60mm nut. I've seen actual clutch compressors in a few videos but is there another (safe) way? Or, should I take it to my dealer and just have them do it?

Also, there was quite a bit of oily residue inside the housing when I took everything apart. I didn't see any obvious seepage from either of the shaft seals but don't recall that much gunk in there the last time I replaced the belt. There weren't any signs of schmutz on the belt, clutch linings, or sliders. The first four pics are the "before" followed by the "after."

 

[kreiman]

OK, well I have everything apart and am wondering what my options are for compressing the spring (and keeping the clutch from flying apart) when I remove the 60mm nut. I've seen actual clutch compressors in a few videos but is there another (safe) way? Or, should I take it to my dealer and just have them do it?

I just took mine apart again to change the clutch & pillow springs. This time my brother compressed the spring by hand while I removed the 60mm nut & compressed it by hand again when I replaced the nut.

 

[davidh]

I just took mine apart again to change the clutch & pillow springs. This time my brother compressed the spring by hand while I removed the 60mm nut & compressed it by hand again when I replaced the nut.

You were able to torque the nut with him just holding it? I found a bunch of different videos, all with different techniques. I'm sitting at the dealer now and hoping they can do it and will actually use the correct tool. More to follow.

 

[justscootin]

When I took my scooter apart a 25,000km (15,000 miles) my scooter was spotless in comparison to yours (I think you may have a problem) the picture I attached is not cleaned. It is the way I opened it up and I was worried about my little oil stain

OK, well I have everything apart and am wondering what my options are for compressing the spring (and keeping the clutch from flying apart) when I remove the 60mm nut. I've seen actual clutch compressors in a few videos but is there another (safe) way? Or, should I take it to my dealer and just have them do it?

Also, there was quite a bit of oily residue inside the housing when I took everything apart. I didn't see any obvious seepage from either of the shaft seals but don't recall that much gunk in there the last time I replaced the belt. There weren't any signs of schmutz on the belt, clutch linings, or sliders. The first four pics are the "before" followed by the "after."

View attachment 1647View attachment 1648View attachment 1649View attachment 1650View attachment 1651

 

[kreiman]

You were able to torque the nut with him just holding it? I found a bunch of different videos, all with different techniques. I'm sitting at the dealer now and hoping they can do it and will actually use the correct tool. More to follow.

My brother used a strap wrench to hold the clutch while I torqued the nut down. My closest dealer doesn't have the spring compressor tool, so taking it to them was not an option.