Horn Button
- Thread starter cpallenjr
- Start date
TwoPort
Member
I wonder if WD-40 will interfere with the contact points if exposed? I use Caig Deoxit or Progold Conditioner where there are electric contact points. But I may be wrong and WD-40 won't mess with the conductivity. Geez maybe I could have saved money and really used used WD-40 for everything!
Scorpion56
Member
Speaking of the OEM horn, which is awful, I have parts on order to perform a DIY upgrade to dual horns, using the "recipe" provided by Rick on his WebBikeWorld site. Here are links to the horn upgrade procedure, the horns' wiring harness install, and what the new horns sound like. I'll post with my results after the installation is complete.
Horn step by step: BMW Scooter Horns - webBikeWorld
Wiring Harness install: Dual Horn Relay Wiring Harness - webBikeWorld
New sound mp3 file: http://www.webbikeworld.com/bmw-c-650-gt/hella-trumpet-horns.mp3
Horn step by step: BMW Scooter Horns - webBikeWorld
Wiring Harness install: Dual Horn Relay Wiring Harness - webBikeWorld
New sound mp3 file: http://www.webbikeworld.com/bmw-c-650-gt/hella-trumpet-horns.mp3
WD40 is made with fish oil and propellant and a suspension agent That is why it displaces water
Xian Forbes
New member
It's called Water Displacement version 40 for good reason. Although not having tried it, I heard this stuff might be twice as good.
WD-80 ... Lol
WD-80 ... Lol
yellasei
New member
spot on, glad the problem is sorted. spraying our switches with lubes etc will probably have no effect as it is the printed circuitboards that fail, you would have thought that BMW would have learnt this in the 80's with the old K series clocks!!
JaimeC
New member
Wow, that brings back memories! i went through three or four instrument clusters in the first three years of ownership with my K100 back in the 80s!
That problem, though, was with moisture getting trapped inside with no place to go. It eventually caused the contact pins to corrode and lose conductivity. The fix was a new enclosure with a Gore-Tex "vent" that allowed the moisture an escape path.
That problem, though, was with moisture getting trapped inside with no place to go. It eventually caused the contact pins to corrode and lose conductivity. The fix was a new enclosure with a Gore-Tex "vent" that allowed the moisture an escape path.
exavid
Member
WD40 isn't really a lubricating fluid but was designed as a water dispersant. In fact it stands for, "water dispersant formula forty" because it was their fortieth test formula. It will of course act as a lubricant but doesn't last long. Contact cleaner/lubricant (Radio Shack) is a better lube for switches. Best method is to do what I did if your scooter is still under warranty, take it to the dealer for replacement. There's a service bulleting out on the switches, no cost to you.
Billy Goat
New member
I've been attempting to replace the stock single horn with twin tone Hella horns as descibed here https://www.webbikeworld.com/dual-horn-relay-wiring-harness/ using the existing factory wires for the trigger but either with or without a separate wiring harness directly from the battery, the bike seems to flick a fusable link, I assume between the factory horn button and the factory wiring loom horn plug somewhere because no fuses are tripped and the horn will work again for another three second blast after restarting the ignition. Everything I've read seems to make out it's plug and play but not in my experience; two horns will trip a fusable link but one won't. Adding new wiring from the horn button to the new horns looks too tricky for me if you've seen the complex chipboard inside the handlebar contol button panel. Anyone had experience with this this issue?