motomanjim
Member
Recently, I completed the installation of the hydraulic cam chain tensioner on my 2013 C650GT and while the project went fairly well, I did encounter some stubborn, if not seized, fasteners. Little did I imagine that the cylinder head bolts, or as BMW calls them, "collar screws," would be the major culprits since they are installed with only 10 NM torque. And what added to the challenge is their location with two fasteners in a recessed area of the cover and very close to a frame cross member. Looking back on what I did, I probably would have had more success had I used an 8 mm 6-point shallow socket rather than the 12-point socket in my collection of tools. Of the four fasteners, one came out just fine with the others removed using bolt extractors.
It was at this stage in the procedure that I was beginning to think I had bitten off more than I could chew for the next test came attempting to remove the cam chain cover which gives access to turn the engine to firing TDC (top dead center.)
As you can see, I murdered the face of the cover using and impact wrench which is designed for removal using a flat blade screwdriver. BMW did improve this design as shown in the pic that follows.
If I had had the foresight to use a punch and drill to make a dimple at a point in the outer circumference of the cover and strike it from an angle with a chisel, then that may have gone better.
Thankfully, things started to improve once the cover was removed for I was able to use a socket and wrench to turn the nut (and engine) which has a marking on the side. The goal here was to turn the engine clockwise so the mark was directly facing the "I". I must say here I had no idea how to turn the engine for the workshop manual makes no referral that I could find regarding the process. Thanks to forum members Pappy13 and Orlandopalladino for helping me here. When the engine is at firing TDC, the alternator side is at overlap TDC.
Difficult to see, but the mark or dimple on the cam is parallel and facing the mark of the opposing cam which is not visible in the pic. If those marks are facing away from each other, then the engine is at overlap TDC.
After removing the old chain rail guide which came out easily, the next step was to install the new chain guide with "jump guard." I was able to torque three of the bolts to specifications (10 nm) but could not reach the bolt with my torque wrench located in a recessed area. I had to tighten that one by feel and what I thought was appropriate. Removing the second-generation tensioner was accomplished using a t-30 T-handle wrench and it was installed the same way as getting my torque wrench in the cavity was impossible.
If you'll look closely, you can see the tensioner's date of manufacture which is August 6, 2014.
Now it was time to remove the dreaded oil plug next to the oil filter for the hydraulic line. Removing a plastic shroud covering a portion of the case housing the alternator, enabled me to focus my heat gun at the oil plug without damaging the side stand connector wiring and the shroud itself. Surprisingly, the plug came out with about three minutes of heat.
In summary, this project probably stretched the limits of my DIYer abilities, but I really enjoy working on my scooter as I have done on other motorcycles. If you're thinking about doing this upgrade, then you will hopefully benefit from my mistakes and have greater success.
It was at this stage in the procedure that I was beginning to think I had bitten off more than I could chew for the next test came attempting to remove the cam chain cover which gives access to turn the engine to firing TDC (top dead center.)
As you can see, I murdered the face of the cover using and impact wrench which is designed for removal using a flat blade screwdriver. BMW did improve this design as shown in the pic that follows.
If I had had the foresight to use a punch and drill to make a dimple at a point in the outer circumference of the cover and strike it from an angle with a chisel, then that may have gone better.
Thankfully, things started to improve once the cover was removed for I was able to use a socket and wrench to turn the nut (and engine) which has a marking on the side. The goal here was to turn the engine clockwise so the mark was directly facing the "I". I must say here I had no idea how to turn the engine for the workshop manual makes no referral that I could find regarding the process. Thanks to forum members Pappy13 and Orlandopalladino for helping me here. When the engine is at firing TDC, the alternator side is at overlap TDC.
Difficult to see, but the mark or dimple on the cam is parallel and facing the mark of the opposing cam which is not visible in the pic. If those marks are facing away from each other, then the engine is at overlap TDC.
After removing the old chain rail guide which came out easily, the next step was to install the new chain guide with "jump guard." I was able to torque three of the bolts to specifications (10 nm) but could not reach the bolt with my torque wrench located in a recessed area. I had to tighten that one by feel and what I thought was appropriate. Removing the second-generation tensioner was accomplished using a t-30 T-handle wrench and it was installed the same way as getting my torque wrench in the cavity was impossible.
If you'll look closely, you can see the tensioner's date of manufacture which is August 6, 2014.
Now it was time to remove the dreaded oil plug next to the oil filter for the hydraulic line. Removing a plastic shroud covering a portion of the case housing the alternator, enabled me to focus my heat gun at the oil plug without damaging the side stand connector wiring and the shroud itself. Surprisingly, the plug came out with about three minutes of heat.
In summary, this project probably stretched the limits of my DIYer abilities, but I really enjoy working on my scooter as I have done on other motorcycles. If you're thinking about doing this upgrade, then you will hopefully benefit from my mistakes and have greater success.
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