Stupid Clutch Question
- Thread starter Tompierce
- Start date
Xian Forbes
New member
I find that a more gentle twist of the throttle engaged clutch qicker than when I give it full raspberries. I find the higher revs and more demands on the clutch keep it slipping longer as it's trying to maximize performance. On a slow departure I notice engagement as low as 3,000 or so. I guess everyone's results might vary. This is just what I feel through my trousers and read on the totally broad tach display.
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Well, I think the sooner you can get the pads to stop sliding the sooner they stop wearing. The best way to do that with a CVT is difficult to fathom . My opinion is ; don't worry about it and enjoy the ride, or, keep the bike in the garage and don't worry about it. Same course of action, not to worry, one is more fun!!
JaimeC
New member
Pretty much. The electronics are going to control clutch engagement no matter what you do, so don't think about it. Just enjoy the ride.
I would think that shortening the "engagement" by accelerating hard MAY be easier on the clutch, but will then end up stressing parts that are more expensive to replace.
"There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch."
I would think that shortening the "engagement" by accelerating hard MAY be easier on the clutch, but will then end up stressing parts that are more expensive to replace.
"There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch."
Xian Forbes
New member
There are no electronics in our cvt systems. It's much like a constant speed propeller hub in an airplane. It's spinning counterweights and springs that are effected by torque load.
Xian Forbes
New member
I think of it like this, if you wanted to "launch" a vehicle with a std clutched trans you'd slip the clutch and stay in the short gears and maintain high revs. So the converse should be true, a slower departure would allow for minimal need for slipping the clutch and you'd be in third or fourth gear loafing along. Me thinks cvt reacts to torque demands in much the same way. My method is to attempt to achieve equilibrium as soon as possible, then accelerate once everything is hooked up. I've also noticed an increase in average economy by this method which leads me to believe that it has merit.
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Doraemon
New member
Somthing else to consider, after changing to the Dr. Pulley clutch, I viewed the original clutch and noticed it didnt fully engage. I think you really have to wear it in to get full contact. The peak of each 4 pads was only the middle 1/3 showing wear.
If after knowing this, and keeping the stock clutch. I would probably make some maintenance plan for the pads and bell after every riding season. I will be inspecting my dr pulky clutch this winter to see how it looks as well.
If after knowing this, and keeping the stock clutch. I would probably make some maintenance plan for the pads and bell after every riding season. I will be inspecting my dr pulky clutch this winter to see how it looks as well.
Skutorr
Active member
Years ago when the world ran on vehicles with just DRUM brakes, when you did a brake job on a car you turned the drums, if possible, and then with a different mechanism on the same machine "ARCED" the shoes so that the curvature mirrored that of the inside of the corresponding drum, to allow for 100% of the shoe friction material to contact the drum. New drums have a tighter curve, machined drums ("turned") have a larger curve.
To fit all drums, new/relined shoes are now ALL made to fit new drums; only the center 1/3 to 1/2 actually will touch. And arcing shoes is now illegal everywhere...
The same now goes for centrifugal clutch friction shoes, on EVERYTHING. So, get a GOOD asbestos-rated mask, a sanding block and some 180grit paper. and hand-cut the clutch shoes to MATCH the curve of the bell. Make sure also that the bell isn't tapered, as they wear more toward the outer edges...
(Eventually, just BUY the damn Dr. Pulley clutch....and check IT'S contact pattern upon install
)
Xian Forbes
New member
Dale's got the right idea. You can feel it through your trouser seat.
Skutorr
Active member
...or, again, do what almost EVERY rider in Spain and Italy is doing, forget the work-arounds and put in an actual clutch that works every time, under all conditions. The Dr. Pulley HIT clutch. Some DEALERS are putting them in instead of another replacement OEM, because they are tired of the comebacks...
SteveADV
Active member
JaimeC
New member
I know the single-plate, dry aluminum clutch used in the older model BMW motorcycles were always criticized by the motorcycle press as being "fragile." Probably because they didn't like being hard-launched at the dragstrip over and over again as they "researched" their articles.
On the other hand, the ORIGINAL single-plate, dry aluminum clutch in my 850 lbs, 100 bhp BMW K1200LT was finally replaced at the 160,000 mile service (yes, that is not a typo).
On the other hand, the ORIGINAL single-plate, dry aluminum clutch in my 850 lbs, 100 bhp BMW K1200LT was finally replaced at the 160,000 mile service (yes, that is not a typo).
Skutorr
Active member
It's not a function of wearing-out, but rather that of smooth operation. Under warrantee, a C600 owner in Spain finally took it in, as the clutch's juddering at take-off was getting worse. After he picked it up with a replacement factory clutch, by the time he rode home it was WORSE than when he had brought it in! After that, the dealer put in a HIT clutch...problem GONE. Happy owner and RETURN customer.
Doraemon
New member
I hope they inspected the clutch bell as well. when changing out the clutch make sure you have a clean smooth bell. I wonder if you could take it to the auto shop and turn it like a brake drum? if you needed to.
Kobi Hadar
New member
Hi
Does anyone know whether there is a sports clutch to C600 ???
And if anyone knows how can eliminate the traction control system ????
Thank you
KOBI
Does anyone know whether there is a sports clutch to C600 ???
And if anyone knows how can eliminate the traction control system ????
Thank you
KOBI