I rented a C 650 GT 4 years ago and loved the power, acceleration and comfort. I hadn't ridden for many years and this bike was great for an aging rider. It took a few years to find one for sale (hard to find in Denmark) but last summer I got one with low mileage and the dealer had serviced it so that it didn't need much more than air, oil and cleaning for the first summer season. This coming season I want to service the bike as much as I can myself. For now I just want to change the oil and filter and clean/replace the air filter. The only torque wrench I own is one for putting wheels on a car. I will need a set of reliable torque wrenches. Does anyone here have a suggestion for a set? I am just starting, so I will only need to do simple regular maintenance and let the shop do the heavy lifting. Is a T handle a good option when buying a new set? What is a good range og Nm's for regular maintenance? I assume that a precision of 0.1 is precise enough, maybe that much precision is not necessary. A few words from an experienced DIY mechanic would be greatly appreciated.
Torque wrenches
- Thread starter Billy56
- Start date
Delray
Well-known member
Greetings:
Notes pasted below from previous maintenance shows torque range for oil + filter change ... 11 Nm to 28 Nm
ENGINE OIL
No need to remove any plastic panels. Use aluminum foil to guide oil into pan. Oil change start to finish takes one hour.
Oil change tutorial:
https://www.webbikeworld.com/bmw-scooter-oil-filter-change/
Oil minimum specifications: SAE 15W-50 API SJ/JASO MA2.
3.1 liters with filter change.
TORQUE Oil Drain Plug on Bottom: 28 Nm (20.5 ft. lbs.). 8 mm hex
TORQUE Oil Strainer Plug Near Side Stand: 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.). 17 mm. socket. REMEMBER: Insert screwdriver through strainer tube until it’s in place securely so it doesn’t fall down into the oil pan.
GASKET FOR ENGINE OIL DRAIN PLUG: BMW # 07119963252
GASKET FOR OIL SCREEN TUBE BOLT: BMW 07119906605
OIL FILTER
BMW #: 11427673541
TORQUE Oil Filter: 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.).
Notes pasted below from previous maintenance shows torque range for oil + filter change ... 11 Nm to 28 Nm
ENGINE OIL
No need to remove any plastic panels. Use aluminum foil to guide oil into pan. Oil change start to finish takes one hour.
Oil change tutorial:
https://www.webbikeworld.com/bmw-scooter-oil-filter-change/
Oil minimum specifications: SAE 15W-50 API SJ/JASO MA2.
3.1 liters with filter change.
TORQUE Oil Drain Plug on Bottom: 28 Nm (20.5 ft. lbs.). 8 mm hex
TORQUE Oil Strainer Plug Near Side Stand: 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.). 17 mm. socket. REMEMBER: Insert screwdriver through strainer tube until it’s in place securely so it doesn’t fall down into the oil pan.
GASKET FOR ENGINE OIL DRAIN PLUG: BMW # 07119963252
GASKET FOR OIL SCREEN TUBE BOLT: BMW 07119906605
OIL FILTER
BMW #: 11427673541
TORQUE Oil Filter: 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.).
Ceesie76
Active member
Not sure to post this but ..... I never use a torque wrench for oil/filter changes, I seem to be able to do it fine 'by feel' - have not had any issues in oil/filter changes for the past 15 or so years on maintaining our 8 cars and 4 motorcycles, even suspension work like shocks/struts/control arms. Of course no doubt better to use a torque wrench, but I would not go overboard either, just sayin'.
I’ve had great luck with this brand. The pound/newton meter indicators are small but clear. Other than that, it is awesome. https://a.co/d/eTdlBZp
wspollack
Active member
Looks great, and decent reviews. And 3% accuracy is pretty high; as I recall, both my Harbor Freight and Sears wrenches have 4% specs.
@Billy56:
- Ideally, you want to be in the middle somewhere when using a torque wrench -- i.e., avoiding the highest and lowest extremes of a given wrench's range -- because the accuracy tends to fall off there. I've accumulated four torque wrenches over the years, because of that; the biggest one, my only 1/2" drive one, is something I only use for car lug nuts.
- Get used to feeling for the click. Some of those wrenches have clicks that are very subtle, to the point that you may miss them if you just crank away like Godzilla. One way to check this out -- and a good way to sort of "warm up" seldom-used wrenches -- is to set them at, say, half of the value you intend to use them for (and then, after reaching that, set them for the real higher value, and proceed again).
- If you'll be using anti-seize and suchlike, that will throw things off, unless a shop manual, etc., specifically calls for that use when it gives a torque value. That's a whole can of worms, and you can do your own research.
- Set the wrench to 0 when storing it after use.
- Don't use them for non-torque stuff, e.g., don't loosen bolts with them.
Final.Drive
Member
I've never used torque wrenches either for basic tasks.
Me either. Frame, forks & suspension, wheels, spokes, hubs, and spark plugs as of late. I have a DCT bike, I've owned three; I do use the torque wrench on the DCT filter cover as so many owners have snapped the bolt. I don't use it on the oil filter but it's not a bad idea to do so, probably the best practice.